Kimonos, smiling moons, and all things Japan

A few days before I left for Japan I read in a letter from a friend, "Don't forget to look up at the stars and moons, all are looking at you." Well, its true. Every morning and night I open my window, look outside and say hello to the day or goodnight to the moon, whispering "Goodnight Magic Japan Land." And it really is magic. I've spent more time looking out that window at the street ahead of me--- a huge neon-yellow sign advertising a "family-style" restaurant spinning in circles, quickly blinding me every fourth of a second, people walking to the train, people on their bikes, a busy intersection and the random house I live behind and can spy on. It was during the first week here that I caught a glimpse of the moon early one evening- say, around 5 o'clock, pm. I love those early moons, when its still light out. I realized it was 1am for my California people, the night before. I pictured them looking at the same moon, at that same moment, only, a day before. I still can't get over this, and can't seem to grasp my head around the moon's largeness. It's the biggest thing I think I have ever seen, yet I can't even see its bigness. So weird. One day last week my mom called me from skype (from the US,) it was 10am for me, and 9pm for her the night before. As we are talking my dear friend Reynolds skype-messaged her, thinking it was me. Reynolds is Indonesian but getting his masters in Scotland at the moment. So, at the same time the 3 of us were communicating from 3 different time zones- night for her in the US, middle of the night for him in Scotland, and the next day for me, Japan. I think it was a little mind boggling for all three of us.


I go to my favorite cafe about once a week to talk with my hot-springing waitress friend, Ayano. As I am leaving this week she says very nonchalant, "Oh I told my grandmother about you, and how you are interested in Japanese culture, and she wants to give you her kimono that she doesn't wear anymore. But its heavy, maybe you don't want it?" OK THAT IS THE MOST INCREDIBLE THING I HAVE EVER HEARD! I am going to adopt a kimono from my Japanese friend's grandmother in Japan. Killer.

So, the more I travel I have come to realize that cool-ness really is relative. I do believe that we are told what is cool, and then we think it is ourselves deciding it, opposed to the consumer culture we live in and support by buying, only continuing this process. Like, for example, doggie clothes. Yes, doggie clothes. Those grandmas in NYC who have little Chihuahuas and put clothes on them. And its not cool. BUT, they are grandmas, so they have an excuse. Can someone please tell me what is the excuse for the millions of Japanese people who think its cool to buy wardrobes for their animals??? I have seen everything... jean overalls with a red and white stripped shirt underneath, leather, yes yes LEATHER, its all here. People (everyone!) put clothes on their dogs. Its a scary version of 101 Dalmatians where the dogs match the owners- here, you will see a dude with slicked hair and dark sunglasses, a leather jacket to prove his toughness, and who is next to him but his little dog Binkie, with matching clothes. And he's cool for it.



Japan has a reputation for being technologically advanced. And, well, its true! Every cell phone in existence not only has internet, but you can watch TVs on your cellies. But, for my favorite example: so, there are different forms of payment for the subway/my above-ground train. You can put a little piece of paper in the machine and it spits it back out on the other side, or else you buy a pass that you keep re-charging and swipe as you walk into the subway. Just last weekend I was telling my friend-from-home-living-in-Tokyo-friend Andrew how I get this secret adrenaline rush every time I leave the train and I can feel eyes surprised that I am getting out in the middle of no-wheres-ville an hour outside of Tokyo and when I take out this pass and swipe it I feel like really I am yelling to everyone, "ha! I am no tourist- I live here, so there!!!!" Well, I got schooled, because not only do you not need to take the credit-card looking pass out of your bag at all, but I have discovered the machine seems to recognize it through all the millions of contents in your bag! So, instead of fumbling around in your bag looking for this one thing, you walk by, lift up your bag that has your whole life inside it, and MAGIC, the machine beeps and you can go through. I'm sorry but really- is this simple thing not so amazing? A machine that can detect a little piece of plastic inside your bag?????